Q. Why do you apply so many coats of lacquer to your drums?
A. The key to a deep, lush, wet-looking
finish is applying many coats of material, leveling between coats, and building the finish up some more. Beyond the aesthetic
beauty of our finishes is a degree of protection unlike that offered by any other drum manufacturer. What's more, the
poly undercoats and urethane clearcoats are the finest available. A typical four-piece kit would likely be drenched in nearly
$1,000 of lacquer alone. You can buy an entire kit at a chain store - with hardware - for that. We're not making toys
here. This is serious stuff.
Q. Most drum companies offer a 45° bearing edge, why
do you cut a different edge for every drum?
A. Think about it. As a drum shell size increases, the collar of the drumhead
also increases. Therefore one edge does not work for all. The bigger the collar, the rounder the edge, the more head-to-shell
contact that's required. Try not to get hung up on 45° or 30°. Those are the router bits that are available. The
drum doesn't know the difference between them. What matters is the peak—or bead—that makes contact with the
head. Other drum companies are into manufacturing not hand crafting. Which is why they set their router tables up one way
and zip out a product to maximize profits. Good for business. Not good for the drum's sound.
Q.
Thicker vs. thinner shells?
A. Contrary to popular belief, thinner does not mean more resonant. Thicker shells project
more. Sure, the pitch increases as shell thickness goes up, but you're not playing the shell, you're playing the head.
Try this experiment: string up a super thick Les Paul guitar with a low E string. Now string up a thin archtop with the same
string. Surprise! They both tune to an E. The thinness—or thickness—of the shell does not determine the drum's
pitch. Thin shells are muddy and park the heads in one tonal place. Limiting. Thicker shells, however, provide a far greater
tuning range. Which is why our Organic Series shells are 3/8" thick and our Ply Series shells are a minimum 10 plies
with optional 10-ply reinforcement rings. More expensive to make? You bet. We make real drums. Want toys? Consider everything
else.
Q. All maple or all birch vs. shells with mixed woods.
A. The inner ply is what gives a drum its unique character.
A sound wave simply cannot penetrate the inner ply, make it through a layer of glue to the next ply, and so on. Utilizing
the same wood for each ply is ideal because of how the glue adheres to the porosity of the wood. Look at a vintage shell with
poplar or some other filler wood sandwiched between and you'll probably witness separation of the plies. Bad idea.
Q.
Do you make solid shell drums?
A. Yes! Our Organic Series drums are available in over 40 wood species—from Ash
to zebrawood. Solid. One-piece. Steam-bent. Pure, musical tone from a shell that's 3/8" thick. No other drum company
offers such variety. So rather than your sound being dictated by a drum company's manufacturing and profitability requirements,
you can sound like, well, you.
Q. Why do you put so much effort into finishing the inside of your shells?
A. That's where the sound happens—on the inside. The shell must be reflective. In order for this to happen, you
must sand and sand and sand and sand and sand some more. Then, we apply a reflective coating of nitrocellulous (musical instrument
lacquer). The drum will project more and sound better to the person playing the instrument. Why other drum companies don't
spend time on the inside is beyond us. They're more interested in how great the drum looks from the outside and give you
marketing hype in regard to a drum's sound. Silver sealer? Nothing more than silver spray paint used to cover the slop
left behind because the drum company didn't take the time to do the job right. Feel the inside of your drums. Are they
rough? If so, they won't sound as good as they could. Why? The pores of the wood act as a sponge and soak it up.
Q. Do you make metal snare drums?
A. Yes again. Heavy guage carbon steel in chrome, black chrome or 24k
gold. 220 bronze. Aluminum. Titantium. Thick, rich, and full of body. The sound projects like mad. The response is uncompromising.
Oh, and carbon fiber is another offering, too. Loud like metal. Warm like birch. Awesome.
Q. How does
a lug affect the drum's sound?
A. It doesn't. A lug is on the outside of the drum and the sound is on the inside.
However, the Ford lug does make tuning easier and much more accurate. Our lug is a genuine Ford part and it's machined
from either solid aircraft aluminum or solid brass. The insert moves front to back and side to side, thus allowing for true
axial alignment. The result is smoother tuning. Unlike cast, pot-metal lugs used by nearly all manufacturers, the Ford lug
is meticulously crafted, polished and plated. There is a difference. Even our mounting screws provide a benefit: aircraft
grade stainless. Only the best components are found on a Ford.
Q. Custom? Collectors? Every drum company
has a gimmick.
A. We build drums for the individual much like a tailor would make a suit just for you. Your Ford kit
is designed to meet the needs of your particular playing situation. Your Ford kit is available in any finish you desire. Moreover,
your signature can be emblazoned on the badge rather than that of some high-profile endorsee. Our name is on the drum. Your
name is on the drum. There is nothing generic about it.
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Q. What's with the auto analogies?
A. The company namesake is Jimmy Ford. He's known in
the drumming community for having played with Lionel Hampton for years and as a favorite at drum shows where he stuns audiences
with his tribute to Buddy Rich. That said, Ford is known in the automotive industry as being middle of the road. Our drums
are anything but. We are building Ferraris. The contrast between the two lends itself nicely to searing an indelible mark
in the minds of drummers. All of which begs the question: Have you driven a band lately?
Q. 2.3mm rolled
hoops vs. diecast vs. wood.
A. Steel rolled hoops are forgiving and easier on your wrists and fingers. They also open
up the sound of the drum. Diecast hoops are more rigid and necessary if the drum shell is too thin. Diecast hoops also dampen
the sound of a drum. Wood hoops are, well, woody and fall between a steel hoop and a diecast hoop.
Q. Do
you make your own hardware?
A. No need. Gibraltar stands are the best around and we use them exclusively. We're not
alone in this thinking. Gretsch Drums use Gibraltar as well. Not to mention a myriad of other drum companies. What's more,
we're in the drum business, not the hardware business. Making premium drums is our core competency.
Q.
Why are your opinions on drum building more valid than another's?
A. Opinions are just that, opinions. At Ford, we
started as a repair shop. We've worked, tweaked, fixed, refinished, re-wrapped, re-edged every brand of drum in existence.
We know where the corners were cut in an effort to make a little more profit. We simply won't do it. If the drum has our
name on it, it's going to be the best money can buy. But the proof is in the pudding. When you sit down behind a set of
Fords they'll inspire you to play. They'll improve your playing. You'll love the sound and the audience will hear
the purity of each note. Read our reviews in Modern Drummer, DRUMMER in the UK, and other drum publications and Web sites.
They're all glowing.
Q. What about acrylic drums and multi-media drums?
A. All materials
have their place in drum building. If you desire an acrylic drum, we can and will build one for you. We do, however, recognize
that acrylic is a fad along with drums fashioned from a variety of materials. Before we venture in that direction, let's
first focus on the sound you want from the instrument. After all, isn't that the most important thing?
